Originally envisioned as a new take on the Mora 2000 Outdoor Knife, the Mora 2010 Bushcraft Forest Knife features drastically different ergonomics from the more traditional Mora knives, such as the Mora Classic 1.
Mora 2010 Bushcraft Forest Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife – Amazon / Blade HQ
While the Mora Bushcraft Forest 2010 does look very different from the Mora Classic, it has very similar balance point. The sweet spot is right under the guard, which leads me to assume that the Mora Bushcraft Forest has a stick tang that goes approximately one-third of the way down into the handle.
Retention of the sheath is excellent. There is a nice little click to let you know when the knife has been properly sheathed.
As with all other Mora sheaths, the Mora Bushcraft Forest 2010 sheath features a drainage hole. This drainage hole is very logically placed right at the bottom of the sheath for maximum drain of liquids.
Originally, the sheath came with a ridiculous plastic clip/loop system, but I promptly ripped it off and replaced it with paracord. The paracord system works much better. Like with the Hultafors GK, the Mora 2010’s sheath attachment is the weakest part of its sheath design.
You can either double the paracord over and pull it through your belt, or you can carry it as a neck knife, Cody Lundin style! Admittedly, it is both heavier and bulkier at 2.4 oz than Cody’s Mora Classic 1, so I probably wouldn’t recommend carrying the Mora Bushcraft Forest 2010 as a neck knife, but it’s definitely a possibility if you really want to with the paracord modification.
The knife offers a very sleek modern package, which looks pretty damn good if I say so myself.
The 12c27 steel blade is 2.5 mm thick, plenty thick enough for all bushcraft needs. Disappointingly, however, the spine is actually rounded, which means you can’t use it to strike a firesteel with. This is one of it’s biggest downfalls in my opinion considering it’s otherwise excellent as a bushcraft knife out of box.
Like the Mora 2000 Outdoor Knife, half the blade from the middle to the tip is scalloped to allow a thinner, more aggressive angle for cutting and specifically detailed tasks.
Using the traditional saber grip is extremely comfortable with the Mora 2010 Bushcraft Forest. The handle has a tacky rubber coating that really locks in your grip.
The tapering does allow for a decent pinch grip, but between this knife and the Mora Classic 1, I would have to admit that the Mora Classic is the more comfortable of the two in a pinch grip.
Since you cannot use the spine with firesteel – because, as stated previously, the spine is rounded and thus will not produce any sparks – should you ever need to use a firesteel with this knife (as it is/out of box), you will have to use the edge of the blade instead. This will not only dull the blade, but can also possibly affect the heat treatment. Being forced to use the edge of the blade is incredibly problematic for the knife in the long run.
It is of course possible to make a part of the rounded spine flat with modification. Just use a file or a grinder to flatten a large enough portion of the spine so that you can use it with the firesteel. With this modification, my largest problem with the Mora Bushcraft Forest disappears.
Light My Fire Swedish Firesteel Mini – Amazon
The scandi edge is very well ground and is a pleasure to sharpen at 57 hrc.
Like all Mora knives, this blade is absolutely perfect for woodwork!
While the scalloped tip looks a little gimmicky, it really does help with detailed cuts. I haven’t used it on flesh, but I would assume it would work beautifully for field dressing game.
The thinner blade also makes short work of notching.
And of course the Mora 2010 Bushcraft Forest can completely pulverize wood when batoning. I looked around the net to see if there were any in-field issues, failures. or reports of breakage, and I can’t seem to find any. Taking into account how popular this knife is, it’s one hell of a testament to its toughness.
Purists may scoff at the synthetic handles and stainless steel, but don’t let that stop you getting your hands on one of these.
Pound for pound, the Mora Bushcraft Forest 2010 is one of the absolute best outdoor knives on the market.
Just modify the sheath, square up the spine, and this knife is ready to take on anything the bushcraft world could throw at it.
I honestly think the guys here in Mora has read your (exellent) review, and made a new version accordingly.
http://www.moraofsweden.se/adventure/bushcraft-black
Interesting, thanks for sharing Anders! I would be curious to hear if they did actually take my criticisms on board. :)
I will definitely get a hold of this new version & give it a thorough work out in the future!
I’ve been looking at this knife, and love the Mora’s in general. thanks for the chocked full of information review.
Your welcome David- Thanks for dropping by!
I would like to buy either mora 2000 or buscraft forest knife for general camp work / forest trips , and must admit is tough decision.
Which one would you recomend / you wold prefer ?
i am a bit cocerned about wear resistance of buscraft forest knife , rubber part seems a bit thin…
Have you ever had any problems with sheath damaging guardlike part of the handle ? They say it could happend .
Thank you for feedback……..
Personally I prefer the 2000 as it has a more neutral grip profile, the Bushcraft is a fantastic blade (same as the 2000) but has ergonomic molding on the handle that locks your fingers in, this is fine but it doesn’t give you as many options with regards to how you hold the knife.
I also prefer the sheath on the 2000, that leather throng is pretty damn nice compared to some plastic loop!
Anyway those are just my opinions, either knife will provide years of high performance for a relatively low entry cost so don’t feel too much pressure as they are both excellent in their own way!
Thanks for dropping by Skorec!
You’ll plan on wrecking the edge of your knife with a firesteel. But you won’t hit the rounded spine of the blade with a file or grinder now and remove that rounded portion, because…?
That’s of course an option. I was only commenting on the fact that if you get the knife out of box and decide to use it as an outdoor bushcraft/survival knife, you’ll be forced to deal with this problem (if you just take it out on the field and don’t modify it at all first). I’ve edited the article to clarify that.
(Note: I never planned on wrecking the edge of the knife with a firesteel – and I had even mentioned squaring up the spine and modifying the sheath as two easy fixes to make this knife ideal; you can find that bit in the conclusion.)